Pic source: httpscommons.wikimedia.org
Dashain Tika 02 by Krish Dulal - Own work.
Licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0 via Commons
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We took the bus from Pokhara to Baghlung, the take off point for the Kali Gandaki Trek. My frind Vinod Kamath(Captain) had covered that trek a year before and he had told me that we should get down at Maldunga bridge on the outskirts of Baghlung, from where we get mini lorries to Beni, cutting short the trek by a few kilometers. I overlooked that point and went straight to Baghlung.
A fellow traveller, a cheerful looking army man from the Gorkha Regiment coming home, told us that he's there to celebrate Dashain with his family. "Achha lagta hai apna mulk wapis aana. Apnon ke saath tika lagaaneka, khaaneka, peeneka aur mauj masti karneka!" (It feels good coming back home, and enjoy the festivities with the vermilion paint on his forehead, eat, drink, dance and be merry with my people).
I saw the whole town closed and deserted, except for people going around greeting each others for Dashain! Thinking that we won't get transportation to Beni that day, I decided to stay there for the day and start next morning on the trek.
We checked into a basic lodge and I was reminded of some cowboy film in which we see such dingy an dark rooms in a deserted town, nobody attending to us, in spite of shouting aloud! After an hour a boy came and said they don't have the restaurant open, as it was Dashain and we were the only residents that day in the lodge! he said there are one or two restaurants open by the bus stand area where we can have our lunch and dinner.
We were hungry, and went in search of food. In the entire town, only one restaurant was open and there people swarmed like house flies for eating! The owner said they don't have 'Daal Bhaat' but he can serve us nice Momos or noodles. People were hogging momos as if they have been starving for months! They are hard working Gorkhas and Sherpas mostly guiding trekkers and also carrying loads. Naturally they are ventripotent.
I asked the fellow sitting next to me what he's eating. He replied "Momo". I said I know it is momo, but what's the stuffing. He said "Buff".
"Buff? What is buff?"
What he said shocked me, and I was blank for 5 minutes.
By 'Buff', he meant meat of buffalo. Since they have banned cow slaughter in Nepal, instead of beef they eat buff, or buffalo meat!
Then I recalled that on a vast ground annexe the Hotel Dragon in Pokhara where we had stayed, early in the morning I had seen heaps of buffalo meat being sold to locals by the butchers. They had dumped the meat on blue plastic sheets and were cutting it into small bits according to the need of buyers!
Meena was looking pale and she asked the restaurant owner "Is it all you serve here? Don't we get anything without adding buff meat?"
He smiled and said reassuringly "Don't worry madam. We also have bhejitable noodles. We don't mix meat in it."
Then we had a hearty lunch with bhejitable...oops vegetable noodles and tea. It was either too good, or we were too hungry!
After lunch we left the joint back to our room and were greeted on the way by many locals with blood red 'Tika' on their forehead with golden dust and rice grains sticking on it!
Strange customs and food habits they have in Nepal. On one hand they celebrate Dashain and on the other, they eat Buff!